happiness and food

I am sure you will not believe if I tell you I wasn’t ready to take a road trip to Central India. I wanted to save some money and energy and avoid the long road trip. Yes, I can be lazy. But then I also know and believe that when things have to happen they happen.

VT looked up the Tadoba Safari booking page that had only a few open tickets left. The situation was the same at Bandhavgarh. Those tickets that we booked became the start of the trip. We now had to plan our trip around these dates and we had no time to plan. In the past, both of us have had enough time to talk through and close our work priorities before we set out on the road. This time I knew it was going to be different. And that meant a whole lot of fun.

This road trip to Central India was our longest trip. We had never driven from Bangalore on such a long journey. There is always a first time. Isn’t it?

We kept our itinerary fluid depending on the road conditions and shaped it as we traveled. Read on to know the day wise schedule below.

1 car | 2 of us | 5 states | 11 days on the road | 4000+ kilometers

Day 1: Bangalore to Hyderabad

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 570 kms
• En route: Lepakshi, Anantapur, Kurnool
• Total driving time: ~10 hours including breaks
• States : Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana

If you are someone who likes to drive you will love this highway. The road from Bangalore to Hyderabad is a part of the Kanyakumari – Srinagar highway. Many tolls but worth the money you spent as you can cruise along the road. Scenic with hills like the Nandi and some other that I don’t know the names of, the journey was beautiful. We reached before Sun set and it was good to be at my cousins’ for the night halt. Conversations and plans set the tone for the upcoming 10 days on the road.

Day 2: Hyderabad to Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 450 kms
• En route: Adilabad, Chandrapur
• Total driving time: ~10 hours including breaks
• States : Telangana, Maharashtra

We had to start early this day to be on time for the evening safari. A long day was ahead of us. Excited for our first safari, we reached Tadoba good on time but our gate was another 75 kms and the roads weren’t good. The jungle was the relief after the journey.

Tip : Look up the distance and travel time between your hotel and the national park gate. This simple thing can take care of a lot of things. 

After the recent event of a tigress chasing a jeep, cell phones have been banned in Tadoba. As much as I appreciate that it’s important to not disturb animals in their natural habitat, this means that people who visit the jungle should have a camera if they want to capture memories. Not everyone can afford a camera. Isn’t it? That thought apart, the jungle was beautiful. Birds, animals and the greenery added more charm. It was so quiet that at times I was able to hear my own breath and heart beat.

Day 3: Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve to Jabalpur

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 420 kms
• En route: Sonegaon, Seoni
• Total driving time: ~8 hours including breaks
• States : Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh

The morning safari in Tadoba was equally beautiful. It was cold and slightly foggy. We knew the chances of spotting a big cat were bleak but the jungle in itself had a different look in the morning. We headed to Jabalpur after the safari. The drive was easy and comfortable. The highways were well maintained and if there were no repairs on, then the road was in good condition. By the time we reached Jabalpur, the Sun had set and we called it a day after dinner.

Tip : Keep half a day aside if you want to explore Bhedaghat. It’s beautiful and needs time. We miscalculated and couldn’t cover the place.

Day 4: Jabalpur to Bandhavgarh National Park

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 170 kms
• En route: Shahpura, Umaria
• Total driving time: ~4 hours including breaks
• State : Madhya Pradesh

The drive to Bandhavgarh was beautiful. Through small villages and highways that ran between parts of forests, it was a scenic and quiet journey. We had to cover a short distance so we drove at a relaxed place stopping for breaks and admiring the nature. We had a flat tyre that day and then like true travelers on the road, we fixed it ourselves. Smiled and moved on.

Tip: Bandhavgarh has a lot of places to stay. If you are looking for something that gives quality service and amazing food at a reasonable price, please go for the MP Tourism property called The White Tiger Resort. The food the chef cooked at the resort was out of the world. This was also where after dinner we heard the tiger roar. (This is not a sponsored recommendation)

Day 5: Bandhavgarh National Park to Khajuraho

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 225 kms
• En route: Maihar, Panna
• Total driving time: ~6 hours including breaks
• State : Madhya Pradesh

We spotted two leopards on the morning safari in Bandhavgarh and after a good breakfast, we were all set to head to Khajuraho. Throughout the journey, there were meandering roads laced with trees. The Sun rays played hide and seek with the trees and the weather was pleasant. We reached at a good time to grab a cup of tea at our hotel before setting out to buy tickets for the light and sound show at the temple complex of Khajuraho. We ended the day with a good dinner at the hotel.

Day 6: Khajuraho to Jhansi

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 190 kms
• En route: Chhatarpur, Mauranipur, Orchha
• Total driving time: ~4 hours including breaks
• State : Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh

I will be honest. On this journey, we were so close home that I wished we would leave the plan aside and head to Azamgarh. We spent a couple of hours in the morning exploring the Western complex in Khajuraho. That complex hosts the beautiful nagara-style architecture and erotic sculptures. The carvings date back to the 10th century. An UNESCO preserved site, these temples are one of their kind. Before heading to Jhansi, we stopped at Orchha. The drive to Orchha was easy and the small town in itself was a place rich with history. We watched the Sun go down at Orchha and also watched another light and sound show to understand the history. We called it a day at Jhansi which is only 20 kms from Orchha.

Tip : Orchha has a lot to offer. The sunset at the five cenotaphs of Orchha would be worth your time. You can stay at Orchha to explore the monuments.

Day 7: Jhansi to Bhopal

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 320 kms
• En route: Lalitpur, Sanchi
• Total driving time: ~6 hours including breaks
• State : Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh

We explored the Jhansi fort in the morning. It was a good time with fewer tourists around. As the Sun came up, the walls of the fort told us the stories of courage and bravery. The seeds of the revolt for Indian struggle for independence were sown in this fort and one could feel the vibes. Before taking a halt at Bhopal for the day, we stopped at the Sanchi Stupa. This is a world heritage site and no one better than a guide to narrate some stories. We hired one who shared with us a lot of information about the carvings on the four entrances of the Stupa. Around the stupa, there are ruins of temples and monasteries. After we let the guide go, VT and I walked around the stupa to soak in as much as we could. Another cuppa and some puffs at that time was a fulfilling end to the day.

Day 8: Bhopal to Indore

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 250 kms
• En route: Dewas, Ujjain
• Total driving time: ~4 hours
• State : Madhya Pradesh

Bhopal was family time for us. So we decided to not explore the city but spend time with family. The dinner was at home and it was full of love and laughter. The morning too was lazy but warm. We started good on time to reach Ujjain for some time with God. Ujjain is a temple city and you can spend time hopping temples. We chose two and then headed to Indore. The Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga in Ujjain is one of the twelve jyotirlings in India and it’s considered a scared site. We were lucky to get a quick darshan. From there we headed to the famous Kal Bhairav temple where alcohol is offered to the God. Strange but true. Ujjain and Indore are close so we decide to take a night halt at Indore. Indore is famous of its street food. So post the Sun came down, we stepped out to explore the Chappan Dukkan (literally translated to 56 shops) and enjoyed some delicious junk food.

Day 9: Indore to Dhule

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 250 kms
• En route: Mandav, Maheshwar
• Total driving time: ~4 hours
• State : Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra

The plan for the day was to explore Mandav and Maheshwar before heading to Dhule for a night halt. Stone walls and gateways surround the small town of Mandav. The ruins relating to Afghan architecture date back to the 6th century. We visited Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal and Roopmati Mahal. From there, we headed to Maheshwar. If you know of fabrics and sarees, the name should ring a bell. The Maheshwari sarees are woven in Maheshwar. A small town situated on the bank of river Narmada, Maheshwar was a surprise. This was the place where Ahilya Devi Holkar spent her last days. The Ahilya fort leads to a temple where the steps leading to the river ghat reminded me of Varanasi. We spent some time at the fort and the ghat and then headed to Dhule.

Tip : If you like history and ruins, Mandav should be on your radar. You can spend atleast a day here going from site to site.

Day 10: Dhule to Aurangabad

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 150 kms
• En route: Ellora
• Total driving time: ~3 hours
• State : Maharashtra

We headed to Ellora from Dhule. The state highway was single-laned and crowded with truck traffic. Verul as referred to by the locals, Ellora is a place that most Indians have heard of. It is one of the largest rock-cut monastery-temple cave complexes in the world, and a UNESCO world heritage site. Frankly speaking, I hadn’t expected Ellora to be as it was. Since VT was keen to visit, I played along and like always, hadn’t seen a single image online. I was awed. Can you believe that Ellora has 34 caves that are open to public out of 100? Though Aurangabad was supposed to be just a night stay – we went to Bibi ka maqbara and enjoyed some paan at Tara Paan Center. Like locals, we took an auto to head out and it was a fun experience.

Tip: If you enjoy architecture, knowing about stories and carvings, you can spend an entire day in Ellora. There is a lot to explore about Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism at these cave temples.

Day 11 -12: Aurangabad to Hubli to Bangalore

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 1200 kms
• En route: Pune, Satara, Belgam, Tumkur
• Total driving time: 11 hours to reach Hubli and then 6 hours next day to reach home
• State : Maharashtra, Karnataka

These two days were long drives and meant to reach home. The drive to reach Hubli was the longest but then we were in the hotel on good time to catch a good sleep. Our initial plan to go to Ajanta and Lonar from Aurangabad went for a toss due to the road conditions. So reaching home became our priority. Inspite of the long drives, the roads were good and the journey wasn’t as hard as I had imagined. Thanks to National Highways.

“Road trips are the equivalent of human wings. Ask me to go on one, anywhere. We’ll stop in every small town and learn the history and stories, feel the ground and capture the spirit. Then we’ll turn it into our own story that will live inside our history to carry with us, always. Because stories are more important than things.” – Victoria Erickson

We had to end our trip a day before and both of our hearts sank a bit. However, we also knew that we would be back on the road some day and may be then, we would explore what couldn’t be explored. This was our first long trip from Bangalore and I was slightly nervous. However, travel is never about visiting this place or the other. It’s about experiences. So when we had a flat tyre, we changed it and moved on. When driving was hard, we would take a tea-break and get going. When the food on the street was too hard to resist, we stopped and tried.

We met family in Hyderabad and Bhopal and kept going. For eleven days, eleven hotel rooms turned into our bedroom but our car was our home where the two of us would talk, share and laugh about silly things. We even made plans for the next trips. Those eleven days felt like being alive and living each day.

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This post is first of many on our Central India Road Trip. We are grateful to HVK and the CHD team for their support.