happiness and food

Wikipedia defines “Road trip” as a long journey on the road traveled by automobile. This wasn’t a word VT or I grew up with. We had our usual trips or summer/winter vacations by train or buses.

When we met and started a life together, we found a common interest in traveling. Our car became our preferred automobile and road trips became the norm. It hasn’t been long but yes, four years of taking up such trips when ever we get a chance.

This recent road trip to Ladakh was slightly different. We didn’t drive from Bangalore and the car wasn’t ours. We flew to Delhi and took to train to VT’s hometown in Kurukshetra (150 kms from Delhi). From there, we picked up his father’s car and began our longest road trip to the mountains. 12 days on the road, a Maruti Alto K10 full of food and water along with necessary car stuff, and an amazing alignment of stars. A lot of things could have gone wrong with the two of us traveling alone but they did not. 

Want to know about our 12 days on the road? Read on to know more.

Day 1: Kurukshetra to Jammu

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 440 kms
• Major cities en route: Ambala, Ludhiana, Jalandhar, Pathankot
• Total driving time: ~9 hours

On the first day, you don’t know what to expect. We knew that the drive would be easy through the national highways. With that in mind, we started at a comfortable time from Kurukshetra. We took a break before hitting Jalandhar to grab a quick bite. On the way to Punjab, you should try aloo parathas. The locals can’t go wrong with them. Mostly tandoored and served with a dollop of Amul butter, they are delicious.

When we were about to by pass Amritsar, we spotted  Pakistani tourist bus. It was being escorted by the Punjab Police. By mistake we overtook them and then we were warned. The police were probably ensuring the safety of the passengers and did not want Indians to create trouble for the visitors.

Day 2: Jammu to Srinagar

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 300 kms
• Major cities en route: Udhampur, Patnitop
• Total driving time: ~8 hours

When driving from Jammu to Srinagar, ensure you leave early. That helps you get a good head start and by the time you reach the highway, the traffic follows.  This particular route has multiple tunnels and while most roads are good, we hit some patches that needed road work.  We crossed the recently opened Chenani Nashri Tunnel which at 9.28 kms is now India’s longest tunnel.  It cuts the distance between Jammu and Srinagar by 30 kms and 2 hours. You should not miss having Rajma Chawal on this route. We spotted river Chenab on this route and if you think of the river as calm, the ones in the mountains will surprise you.

Baglihar dam viewpoint is one attraction on this route that will prep you for your upcoming days in Ladakh. Try and stop at this viewpoint, grab a cup of your favorite beverage and admire the natural beauty on this route.

In Srinagar, we stayed in a houseboat on the Nigeen lake. The experience was unique and felt lavish. The people of Srinagar are kind and I have some personal stories to share in days to come.

Day 3: Srinagar to Kargil

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 230 kms
• Major cities en route: Sonamarg, Zoji La, Drass
• Total driving time: ~10 hours
• Passes: Zoji La at 11,575 feet

Up from here, the distance is not a measure of speed and time. Sonamarg is beautiful and this is where we got that first look of the mountains. Lush greenery, misty weather, and slightly cold weather. Leaving from the houseboat in Srinagar, we did not know what we were up to as we started climbing up the Zoji La.

Zoji La is the second highest pass on the Srinagar-Leh highway and connects Kashmir valley to Ladakh. That day, it had rained and it was foggy. We were driving at 10 km/hour on a broken road and there was hardly any visibility. This was the only hour on the entire trip where I did not know if I was making it back to Bangalore. This day remains etched in my memory as an unforgettable one. Did I mention we had to put on the air conditioning as the wind screen was misty? Think of how VT pulled the Alto on this terrain.

When in Kargil, don’t forget to spend some time at the Kargil War Memorial. Indian army deserves our respect to all that they do to keep us safe. Indian army is also one of those few ones in the world that guard the country as such high altitudes and under extreme weather conditions.

Day 4: Kargil to Leh

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 240 kms
• Major cities en route: Mulbek, Lamayuru, Magnetic Hill 
• Total driving time: ~8 hours
• Passes: Namika La at 12,139 feet and Fotu La at 13, 478 feet.

The journey from Kargil to Leh was a dream. The roads are in superb condition, the landscape is amazing and one secret is that I was happy coming out alive of Zoji La.

Lamayuru monastery is the first one we visited and it was beautiful.

Beyond the magnetic hill, the gradient will accelerate your car and the drive is smooth. We took blessings at the Pathar Sahib Gurudwara and ate at the langar. A must do before you enter Leh. Not for religious reasons but for the selfless service that the people put into to make tourists and army feel welcomed.

Day 5: A day to explore Leh

Some stats:

• Altitude: ~12,000 feet
• Places to visit: Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery, Hemis Monastery, Hall of Fame

It was finally a day we did not have to leave. I was secretly waiting for a morning to sleep until 8 am and have a relaxed breakfast. We took it easy on this day and explored Leh. Leh is the biggest city of the Ladakh region and the only one that has an airport that connects the region to the outside world.

Leh is a peaceful city and the people are lovely. It was in Leh that I first spotted an Apricot tree. It took me time to understand what it was. I have always seen packed Apricots so this was a beautiful way to discover the flora of the region. Those who fly to Leh should stay in the city for at least two days to acclimatize.

From Leh onwards on this circuit, you need a permit issued by the DC, Leh to visit Nubra Valley, pass via Khardung La, Pangong Tso, Hanle and Tso Moriri. Most of the times, your Leh hotel contacts can help you get that. If you would like to get this on your own, the DC office is open for tourists. Be prepared to wait in long lines and don’t forget to carry cash.

Day 6: Leh to Turtuk

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 210 kms
• Major cities en route: Diskit, Hunder
• Total driving time: ~8 hours
• Passes: Khardung La at ~18,000 feet.
• Permit needed: Yes

Our day in Turtuk will remain memorable for two reasons. One, for the fact that it is one of the most remote villages in India and this is one of the last out post beyond which Pakistan controlled Gilgit-Baltistan begins. Two, we got to stay in a tent and got a walking tour of the village. A small one where Apricots and Apples grow in abundance.

As you head to Turtuk (some people also plan to stay at Hunder where you can experience the sand dunes of Ladakh), you will pass the Khardung La.  There are some debates on the fact but by many this is considered to be the highest motorable pass in the world.

If I get to visit again, I would love to stay at Hunder. Maybe we could have done a day each at Hunder and Turtuk. At Hunder, you can ride the double humped camels and bash the sand dunes.

Day 7: Turtuk to Leh

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 210 kms
• Major cities en route: Hunder, Diskit
• Total driving time: ~8 hours
• Passes: Khardung La at ~18,000 feet.

The journey back was easy as we knew the route and navigated quickly to reach Leh.  Khardung La was at its best weather and did not pose any challenges. Yes, the road conditions aren’t great so watch out. Driving slowly is a must even when you have an SUV. The army gets the right of the way so respect that rule.

Day 8: Leh – Tangtse – Pangong Tso – Tangtse

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 340 kms
• Major cities en route: Karu, Sakti, Chang La, Lukung
• Total driving time: ~8 hours
• Passes: Chang La at ~17,585 feet.
• Permit needed: Yes

On the morning of Day 8, we bid bye to Leh and started the journey to Pangong Tso. The drive from Leh is beautiful and passes through Chang La, another high pass in the region. The eastern end of the Pangong Lake is in Tibet and only 40% of the lake is part of India. The line of control passes somewhere in the middle of the lake and is disputed.

While there are camps at Pangong and Spangmik, we were advised to stay at Tang Tse. The high altitude stay could cause health issues and we decided to go by the advice. While Pangong Tso is highly commercialized, you must drive a bit further towards Spangmik. That part of the lake is untouched and very peaceful. Turn up your audio and don’t miss to see how the color of water changes.

The beautiful Pangong Tso. #ladakh #roadtrip #pangongtso #water

A post shared by Happiness and Food (@happiness_food_and_photo) on Sep 3, 2017 at 2:55am PDT

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Day 9: Tangtse to Hanle

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 300 kms
• Major cities en route: Karu, Chumanthang Hot springs, Mahe
• Total driving time: ~10 hours
• Passes: Chang La at ~17,585 feet.
• Permit needed: Yes

Hanle is another remote village in Ladakh and known for the Indian Observatory and the village’s close proximity to China border. Hanle is inhabited by around 300 locals and every year the village opens up for tourists who visit and birds that migrate. The place is cold and deserted and sees a fine mix of locals and nomads. Like Tangtse and Turtuk, there is no power supply in the village. From 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm,  the government supplies power via a generator to the village.

Day 10: Hanle to Tso Moriri

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 170 kms
• Major cities en route: Loma bend, Mahe CP, Tso Kiagar, Karzok
• Total driving time: ~6 hours
• Passes: Namshang La at ~16,000 feet.
• Permit needed: Yes

This day the drive was shortest and good for us as VT was slightly unwell due to lack of sleep in Hanle. We started from Hanle at a comfortable time, however, the stretch 20 kms before Tso Moriri was in a bad condition. We couldn’t go over 15km/hour and the stretch felt too long.  You actually have to go half way around the lake to reach the area where camps are allowed.

Tso Moriri is beautiful and since it is so further off, the beauty shows up. I would rate the lake above Pangong Tso for its surrounding and colors. You can see the reflection of the mountain in the water.

Day 11: Tso Moriri to Keylong

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 340 kms
• Major cities en route: Debring, More Plains, Sarchu, Jispa
• Total driving time: ~10 hours
• Passes: Namshang La at ~16,000 feet, Lachlung La at ~16,600 feet, Baralacha La at ~16,000 feet

This was a long day and drive. We wanted to break the journey but there was no logical break available. Sarchu is considered to be very cold for a stay and Jispa is close to Keylong. So we made up our minds and left Tso Moriri at 6 am. The initial 20 kms were hard and so was the further road to Debring. It would be unfair to say that the roads are bad. There are no roads and no milestones. We stopped to ask for directions as we did not want to lose time in getting lost and then finding our way.

As you reach More Plains, the drive gets comfortable and easy. The Gata loops are beautiful and since we were on the way down, VT said it was easy to drive too. Himachal border got us the BSNL network and we also stopped at Zing Zing Bar for a quick halt. Oh, that’s not a bar by the way. It’s the name of a small town in Himachal Pradesh.

Day 12: Keylong to Shimla

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 370 kms
• Major cities en route: Tandi, Rohtang Pass, Manali, Kullu, Mandi
• Total driving time: ~14 hours
• Passes: Rohtang Pass at ~13,000 feet.

This day came a bit hard on us. The drive was long and the road not that great. The traffic in Himachal added to the woes and a rash truck driver even brushed past our car leaving it scratched without the right tail light. As we reached closer to Shimla, the Sun had set and the road was too dusty to drive.

The highlight of our day was the beautiful Rohtang pass. It was the most beautiful passes of all we had seen so far.  The clouds were right on the road and the weather was lovely. Many tourists were enjoying the scenic beauty and we were reminiscing our last 11 days.

We stayed in Shimla for two days before driving back to Kurukshetra. The entire road trip was one of its kind and one that will stay us for long. We are thankful to all locals and travelers who helped us with directions and good food. Where the roads are good, they are better than any other city in India and where they are not, looks like another year and the drive will get much smoother.

At passes, don’t expect perfect roads and be cautious at causeways. Some come without warnings so you may have to break hard. Give way to those who are driving up the slope and be patient. The trip to the Ladakh region can be full of uncertainties and it’s better to be prepared than to be caught off guard.

Let me know what would you like to read more and I would be happy to share.

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This post is first of many on our Ladakh Road Trip. Watch this space for more. We are grateful to HVK and the CHD team for their support. We will be back with more road trips with this group.