What to expect at the Kamakhya Temple

Posted on by Parul Thakur
Kamakhya Temple

I first heard of Kamakhya Temple as a young girl. I don’t remember when or why but I know that the temple’s name always came up for something pious and bigger. The memory faded and it was not until our North East India road trip that I decided to visit the temple.

For those who haven’t heard of the temple, Kamakhya is one of the oldest 51 Shakti Peethas in India. According to the Kalika Purana, this was where Sati’s yoni fell when Shiva danced with the corpse of Sati.

Daksha, Sati’s father had held a yagya (sacrificial fire and prayers) but had not invited his daughter Sati and son-in-law, Shiva. When Sati heard of this she went uninvited and against Shiva’s advise. What followed was insult that Sati could not bear and immolated herself. Hearing the news of Sati’s death, enraged Shiva started Tandav that led to a lot of destruction of the world. Vishnu, the creator of the world then used his chakra to cut Sati’s body that Shiva was carrying all along. A Shakti Peetha was established where ever those body parts fell. At Kamakhya Temple, Sati’s vagina fell and hence the temple is famous for granting the boon of fertility. It is also one of those very few in India famous for tantric activities.

Did you know that these Shakti Peethas are in India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Tibet, Sri Lanka and Pakistan?

If you are traveling to North East, there are chances that you will touch Guwahati. Needless to say, the legend was so enticing that I knew I had to visit the temple. I was lucky that we chose a weekday and visited post lunch. What took us 2 hours is a usual 3-4 hours affair.

This post isn’t my usual travel story but slightly different. I want to you know what to expect when you visit the famous Kamakhya Temple.

The dome
    • Animal sacrifices: Goats are offered as sacrifices and some times buffaloes too. It depends on what the priest suggests to the people who want to please the God. It could also depend on the ask and how big it is. The animals and pigeons in the temple complex have gulal (red color powder) on them indicating they are for this purpose.

      A lamb on the line
    • Menstruating women: Women who are menstruating are not allowed to step in the temple. I spotted a notice that called this out for the tourists and devotees. Did you know this temple is closed once a year when per the legend, Sati menstruates and the inner most sanctum reflects red color? The scientific reason is that the soil mixes with the natural spring showing up as red water.

      The architecture
    • Priests: I could not spot a single woman priest. I know that it is rare to find women priests in India but if there was one temple where we could have broken the norm, it was Kamakhya. Nope. Nada. The legend felt smaller than the reality.
    • Commercialization of faith: There were queues for people based on economic strata. You can buy tickets worth 500 or 1000 INR and the wait is shorter. You can also stand in the queue without a fee like we did and wait for 3-4 to get a darshan. When did God make such rules?

      You can buy a probable solution here.
    • Greed: There can be a better heading but I will go with greed. All along the sanctums, there were priests who were alluring devotees to pay for rituals. In the name of blessings or for the scare of curses and every step was a test if you can hold up to your end of the bargain. If one looked financially sound,there were high chances of getting caught. What would you think of this? Faith?

      Another door that opens to God..

I would love to visit the temple again but I wouldn’t visit it for faith. I would go around the temple and look at the architecture. Those beautiful life-size deities on the periphery. And the many birds that flock to feed on the grains. I would avoid looking at the goats and the fear in their eyes. Those animals who don’t even  know how their death can help answer a prayer.  I would love to sit and observe people whose faith and belief brings them to the temple. Those tantriks and what they really do?

The legend makes the temple pious and bigger. But to me, it’s the Goddess who reigns Nilanchal and not the people.

Penning stories from our North East India road trip. Let me know what would like to read more. 

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44 thoughts on “What to expect at the Kamakhya Temple”

  2. I prefer to see temples from the architectural angle. If one goes there to pray, one is bound to feel cynical. There is too much commercialisation in religion today.

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  9. I knew the story only till Shiva’s Thandav. The rest is new to me. I love to visit temples for their architecture and history. Otherwise, it is completely commercial. When we visited a temple in Kumbakonam, an old man told us they had taken a tender of 2.5L for selling lamps at the temple. I never knew this. I was shocked. People lighted lamps earlier because they did not have electricity. Today it is blind Faith. Though I don’t blame faith, I blame the fear behind it.

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  10. I remember in our home mandir we used to have a red cloth that was given to my mother by her friend from Kamkhya. The red cloth apparently was red due to the menstruating blood of Sati. I have been intrigued by this legend ever since. In most Hindu temples I have seen all these that you wrote in your post. In Tirupati once we paid 5000/ for a ‘platinum’ darshan. Overall this was an amazing post.

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  11. All the things you’ve stated there are the reasons why I never liked temples and gave up on religion once I moved out of home. I don’t understand why we can’t pray if we’re menstruating. I don’t understand the commercialisation. I don’t understand the male dominance. Organised religion of any type appears to be against women and I for one can’t be bothered. I agree with you the architecture is beautiful {just like I find with some churches} and I’m appreciate it for just that.

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  13. Loved reading about the temple and the legend behind it. I would be very uncomfortable to visit it as they do balis there. Also menstruating women not allowed? I wish they would change that but then traditions take long to change. And you are right, at most places I am just put off with the commercialization of rituals. I steer clear of them.

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  14. Menstruation is one big taboo back home. The animal sacrifice is common too in many temples. The last time I visited the temple was in 95 I think. And that was it. It’s hard to find peace when you see so much innocent blood.
    The story is interesting… And I didn’t actually know that. It sounds so gory though 🙈
    I believe, in general, the only good thing left about temples is the architecture… Magnificent and artistic.

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  15. Menstruation is a big taboo which I’m not sure what to do about. When will people change their views.
    I have been visiting Kamakhya Temple since I was a kid. I don’t like the queues there. The inner sanctum is very alluring but I hate the fact that they rush you. That’s why we don’t go in anymore. we pray from outside these days. I know it is very commercialized but I have seen that when I pray to Maa Kahamakya she listens to me and gives me strength and I don’t need to stand in a queue or depend on a priest for that 🙂

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  18. My previous comment seems to have been swallowed by the e-space 😦 … We had visited this temple several years ago. It was an unforgettable experience for more than one reason.. A really unique place of worship.

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  19. Your travel posts surpass the place and imbibe the experience so well into the narrative that one feels like making the travel. I love how you have juxtaposed your personal tales with this temple. I so agree with your opinions about no female priests, the menstruation bit and the lines by money to glimpse a darshan. How the faith is ruined by the high priests of greed and how its allowed so blatantly by the temple boards. I too hate the drama the priests do to encourage you to put daan at every turn/stone and pretext in the temple.

    I loved the tale of this temple and its significance- esp the scientific explanation. The pics are gorgeous – loved the gold plated facia on the plinths – they lend such class and history to this place.

    Keep writing such tales which are written from the heart imbibing your opinions and experience so so well! 🙂

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  21. Jai Maa Kamakhya. Most of our Indian wishes to travel towards south, north or west side temples only. Only few prefers East/North East. Perhaps, this is because of not to prefer to know much about north east side temples, culture treating that the same are not sophisticated. I would request all those visiting this sacred temple, to study its history in detail and try to have the innerview, to enable them to have a wonderful spirtual knowledge. This is the most sacred place in 18 Shakti peethas and those who love MAA, must visit temple to seek HER blessings. I would also request devotees not to think about the priests and sacrifices as they are waste of time and noway connected to our UTMOST devotion.

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    1. In that case you should feel bad for goats when people eat them . But unfortunately you people wont do that .
      I am pure vegetarian so when i visited the temple i offered the goddess what i eat (which is vegetarian ) .
      People who eat these animals they offer the same to the goddess .
      So you should feel bad for these goats in case when humans eat them for taste.

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      2. Go to her Instagram page and you will find her photographing chicken dishes – which are nothing but cooked dead bodies.

        That’s ok, but sacrificing animals is not.

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  25. In that case you should feel bad for goats when people eat them . But unfortunately you people wont do that .
    I am pure vegetarian so when i visited the temple i offered the goddess what i eat (which is vegetarian ) .
    People who eat these animals they offer the same to the goddess .
    So you should feel bad for these goats in case when humans eat them for taste.

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  27. Unfortunately money has taken the important place.in all religions. Those who are spiritually strong know the meaning of the divine power. Frankly one doesnt need pujaris and bribing them to get blessings from god.
    However for the temples to run all its staff etc.one needs funds so is the amount collected. So donate in the hundis.
    And small amounts to the punaris in dakshina plate at your will.
    But the rest one should.ignore. everyone undetstands god in the limits of their understanding so goes the offerings.
    So.dont get disturbed with all such rituals

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  28. Do we get to see these animal sacrifices. Are they done openly. I am an animal lover and don’t want to see the gruesome scenes. Would you recommend visiting this temple for People like me ?

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  29. I am so worried about the animal sacrifices. Is it done openly for everyone to see. That’s my only turn off and i sont want to see a gruesome thing. You do still recommend people like me to visit the temple?

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    1. If you are unlucky, you may see. I saw two animals tied and ready to be scarified and of course the place where they are sacrificed.
      But I would still recommend you go. There is charm about the place that I can’t really explain but I’m sure you will feel.

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