Kuldhara, the deserted village

Looking into..

When we took a deviation from the main road towards Kuldhara, there was an eeriness in the air. Odd thing to feel when the Sun had not set yet. There was still time to explore the village before the 5PM deadline came into force.

As we drove towards Kuldhara, we saw barrens lands with no hint of vegetation or cattle. It was a good indication that in spite of what happened some 200 years ago, no one has made this village their home. An unusual thing in a densely populated country like India.

We were curious to know the story of the villagers who ran away.

Kuldhara is only 20 kilometers from Jaisalmer and can easily fit into your itinerary. Work is underway to open the doors to tourists like any other place with an interesting story and history. Currently, the Archaeological Survey of India maintains this deserted village.

Probably a temple in the olden days

So what is the story of Kuldhara?

Between the 17th and the 18th century, Kuldhara was a prosperous village. Estimates suggests that ~1600 Paliwal Brahmins lived in this village and there were approximate 400 households.

In the 19th century, the Diwan of the village Salim Singh was an unkind man. His atrocities and unreasonable demands were growing day by day. During this time, Salim Singh lost his heart to the beautiful daughter of the village chief. He made a proposition and gave the villagers 10 days to decide. He wanted the girl or there would be heavy taxes levied on the village.

The night of the 9th day, all the 85 Paliwal villages of the area held a council meeting. They together decided to leave their ancestral homes overnight. While they did that, the village chief cursed that no one would be able to live in Kuldhara.

The houses were vacated as is. Utensils, trunks and everything was left behind. I felt that emptiness when I walked around the houses and those little lanes of what once would have been the main road. There was a small temple, many broken walls and even more open windows. In spite of so many people around, it felt lonely and isolated from the rest of the world.

We stepped into a house and walked up a small flight of stairs to reach what would have been a terrace. All around what we saw was nothingness. You may say that amidst a desert that is normal but you have to visit the village to feel what I am talking about.

Nothingness..

What is the truth?

No one knows the truth. The Paliwals escaped the wrath of the Diwan but there is no record of where they went. Some scripts talk about a tectonic activity in the region. An earthquake could have destroyed the village. There is also some evidence around the lack of water in the region. This could have also led the people leave the village for ever.

No matter what people say…

The village has shown indications of paranormal presence at night. There are government-appointed guards at the village entrance who leave at 5PM. They don’t want to talk about what happens once the Sun sets. People who venture out late at night do it at their own risk. No guides are available for hire.

The desert state of Rajasthan has a rich history. The many stories of nawabs and kings, people and the way of life is what makes the state one of the best places to travel. At the same time, the history also talks about tyrant rulers. Those who would rob people of their women and wealth. Taxes and interests that were levied on the people who were too powerless to revolt.

That to me is how the world works. It has the good and the bad elements and we don’t have a control. When you visit a place you may be charmed by the history but there are also parts of the same history that makes you feel sad.

Kuldhara did that to me.

Something of significance

Sharing a story from our 7 day road-trip to Rajasthan and tagging this post to Day 4 of the third edition of BarAthon.


36 thoughts on “Kuldhara, the deserted village

  1. I saw a programme about this village on one of the news channels a couple of years ago. I feel it is extremely brave of visitors who visit this place and other places like this which are full of suspense, eerie and paranormal.

    Like

  2. I have read this story so many time Parul and always wondered about whether its true or not; your visit and your impressions are so well recorded in this tale that it makes me believe it. Loved the pics – very well captured!

    Like

  3. Very interesting. I had not heard about this place. The architecture looks lovely. Your descriptio was so vivid and your pictures truly showed the nothingness.

    Like

  4. Sounds interesting place with an interesting story background . Loved the pictures and the story behind the pictures. Very detailed article! Keep it up!

    Like

  5. I have heard this story before and frankly wouldn’t want to visit such a spooky place. I once visited a ‘haunted house’ and actually felt the evil about….

    Like

  6. I have been to Kuldhara but personally I was not impressed with the stories. Surely, it rates next to Bhangarh only when it comes to haunted paces in India.

    Like

  7. I loved reading about Kuldhara. This being my first time hearing about this place I was intrigued. The clicks are lovely and could trigger a flow of thoughts, I don’t see why they can’t be used as a picture prompt. 😀 Thank you for sharing this travelogue, Parul. I’m sure I would revisit this post in the future.

    Like

  8. This is a fascinating tale of Kuldhara. I am so curious to know about Paranormal activity. Does it really happen or are they stories to keep unwanted visitors away at night? I would love to visit this place. 😀

    Like

Leave a reply to the bespectacled mother Cancel reply