The light drizzle was converting into mist on the windscreen. The ascent was steep and the visibility poor. The wipers were of no use. We needed the air-conditioning to see ahead but the engine was struggling. There was no other vehicle in sight. Public, private or the one of the armed forces. If something were to happen to us, no one would get to know. Ever.
On day 3 of our road trip towards the cold desert of Ladakh, we were driving towards Kargil. We had left the beautiful mountains, green meadows and the good roads of Srinagar behind. The plan of starting early to get a head start on our journey that day had failed. And it wasn’t our fault.
I like safe bets. Low risk and easy things. Where plans C and D are as comfortable as B. This was exactly the opposite. Two of us alone, the winding roads of the mountains and a car. We had no experience and no support to fall back on. No cellular network was another feather in the cap. That day, it looked like we hadn’t put logic into picking our first road trip.
As we were climbing up the pass, the road narrowed. The slush on the road was acting against friction. On my left was a mountain and on my right, there was a deep valley. At 10 am, we turned on the head lights to see if there was road ahead. Or whatever was remaining of the road. La is a mountain pass in Tibetan and other Himalayan dialects. Zoji La is at an elevation of over 3500 meters and connects Ladakh to the Kashmir valley. Bringing to the cold desert, food and supplies needed for survival.
Sitting in the car, I was thinking of survival.
Clasping my fingers, I had forgotten all about the phone or the camera. I had no courage to capture what I was seeing. The music was fading and I was chanting Hanuman Chalisa to fight fear. Meanwhile, the engine revved. I don’t know what my husband thought at that time. He focused on moving up the road while looking for any signs of an oncoming vehicle. A slight error in judgment would have pushed us down the valley.
I told myself that if we cross this patch, I would go back home to talk about our first road trip in the Himalayas. Nothing in the coming days could scare me as much as this one and I was right.
In around twenty minutes, the Sun started showing up. The road was now better and the wider. My confidence was back up and astonishment to what-just-happened had replaced fear. Breathing out in relief, I looked at my husband who smiled back.
We spoke of the drive later that night in Kargil. Together we agreed, that in the quiet of our small car, two hearts were beating hard. One was praying and the other driving.
Writing for Yeah Write #432 today
happiness and food 
It was all your positive thinking and Hanuman Ji who saved u ppl .
Next time don’t visit to such dangerous places .
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lol! I thought you were not feeling well. Please sleep when you have taken a day off. 😛
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My heart was beating too. Of course I knew you survived ( you had to to write the piece) but the fear was palpable.
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Ha ha! Thanks Sunita!
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I prefer safe bets and low risk, too. But there is something very exciting about getting through an adventure like this. I have a fear of heights, so looking at the photo, I don’t know that I would have continued with my eyes open, except that my husband is a very good driver. Sounds like yours is too. 🙂
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After the journey, it’s sure fun looking back 😉 thanks JoAnna!
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This made for a really lovely, if slightly terrifying read. I for one am glad that you are safe and sound. What I especially liked were the references to the steepness of the hills to capture the immense fear it must have caused.
You’ve really grown as a writer, Parul 🙂
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Thanks for saying that, Shailaja. Means a lot! I am working on it. I want to get better and there is no other way than to keep writing 🙂
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I like taking some risks, but this sounds like a terrifying experience! Also one that will become an interesting anecdote for years to come. Glad you guys are safe!
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I would still say that this was one of our best trips ever. I think of this as life. You don’t know what you are getting into at the start but then you sail through and look back as a memory. 🙂
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Oh yes, I could feel your fear. It was so palpable and real, and I don’t think my response to the situation would be any different either! So well brought out by the choice of your words and the descriptions. You took us there with you, and kept us on the edge all throughout. I think you should put these travel tales together and bring out a book sometime. 🙂
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That’s so kind of you to say, Esha! Thank you 🙂
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Like I’ve said before, hats off to VT for driving through this and bringing you both back safely!
The road looks freaky and I can totally understand your fear and how and why it changed to astonishment later.
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A drive to remember, eh!
These terrifying experiences are the ones that make amazing stories for later, no?
I’m happy for you guys — happy that it was a happy ending. 🙂
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I like safe bets too. This sounds like a pretty scary experience but glad it turned out well in the end.
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This was a scary read. Your writing took me and placed me in your seat in that car with the mist deposited on the windshield. I could see the mountain in the left and the deep valley across VT’s window. I could sense the fright in me. God, I don’t want to be in your place from that day. It was a powerful piece of writing 🙂
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Ha ha! Thank you, Anamika.
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I could so relate to this. Lonely treacherous roads and no signal makes my heart beat faster too. I only know Gayatri Mantra so I just chant that. 😅 loved the narration. Lively and engaging.
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Thanks Raji 🙂 When I’m scared, I can only think of Hanuman ji 🙂
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Good story of what I’m sure was a frightening experience. I especially like the set up, the way you explain that no one would ever know if the worst happened! Compelling read.
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I was reading this account with my eyes closed!!! Good Lord, Parul! I am so glad you guys reached safe!
Such moments during travelling can sure drive away our joy of travelling, na? 🙂
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Ha ha! In hindsight, it was fun 😉
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I read this yesterday and re-read it again today. You scared me to a diffrernt level. It was really so thrilling to read too, now you guys are back safe. It reminded me of a particular incident where the husband and his friend had to press the breaks when the car got a bit out of control in a curve at a hilly place. My prayers were abundance then even before I knew something was wrong. Bless you Parul and VT. Glad you guys are safe back to tell this story. Thanks to Hanumanji.
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Super scary! I am really afraid of mountains especially mountain roads. On the last trip to Dalhousie I was so frightened with the bad roads. I dint think I have it in me to navigate roads at that height. Thank God you lived to tell the tale.
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Parul, you did a really nice job of building the tension, revealing just enough to keep the reader engaged but not so much that it gave away what happened next. Your descriptions of the long drop down the valley on one side of the road, and the treacherous conditions allowed the reader to bring their own fears and nervousness to the essay (I was less frightened than most of the commenters here, but I’ve done some pretty hair-raising things in my life).
The lead-up and pacing made this an easy read, but because you did build so nicely, the ending felt less organised and clear. I noticed that in the last few paragraphs you tended towards editorialising the piece (for example, the added “and I was right” leads the reader to expect more information that doesn’t come — what did happen in the next few days? Was it really less stressful/anxiety-inducing?). This has the effect of distancing the reader. There were also a few spots where there was some awkward phrasing, or some unnecessary words that another few rounds of edits would have picked up.
I am enjoying these essays on your adventures, though, and I’m looking forward to reading the next one.
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You brought back memories of my trip through ZoziLa – my friend sat reciting Kalmas while I was trying my best to not look down. The driver was the only nonchalant one as he had done this plenty of times. You both are very brave to do this on your own and am glad no mishap happened there.
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