happiness and food

Road trips are an addiction.

I am sure you have heard me say that before.

I believe you have also heard Norman Vincent Peale say, “Repetition of the same thought or physical action develops into a habit which, repeated frequently enough, becomes an automatic reflex.”

Early this year when we were speculating Ladakh again or not, we decided to explore a different part of India.  A region we had never been to – Arunachal, Assam and Meghalaya. These are three North East Indian states that one can cover over a two-week stretch. The state of Sikkim and the happy country of Bhutan are good to cover together due to their geographical proximity.

Like you can guess, we wanted to travel by road. Our plan was to fly to Guwahati in Assam, pick up a Zoom car (which turned out to be a bad experience), travel across the three states and wrap up the trip in Guwahati. Except the three days we lost due to car troubles, rest of our trip went as planned.

We shopped for a bag of snacks before we started our journey and in no time, the car became our home for the coming two weeks. That’s what a road trip does to you. It makes you feel at home with the transient nature of the travel. The idea of sleeping in a hotel whose rating and reviews are unknown. There is no research and it is only trust that takes you from one city to the other.

Want to know how did we start and which destinations we covered? Read on to know our 13 day itinerary in Arunachal, Assam and Meghalaya.

Day 1: Guwahati to Dirang

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 314 kms
• En route: Mangaldoi, Kalaktang, Bomdi La
• Total driving time: ~10 hours including breaks
• States : Assam to Arunachal Pradesh

We reached Guwahati the previous night and left for Arunachal Pradesh early in the morning.It had rained the previous night and while April is the right time to head to the seven sisters of India, rains are not considered unusual in the North East. It was a slightly foggy and a beautiful morning to begin our trip. Crossing the lush green plains of Assam, we slowly started our ascend towards Arunachal Pradesh. We spotted children on their way to school and to me this was no different from anywhere else in India. The ascend to Arunachal was gradual and scenic. With rivers like Tenga flowing along, we wanted to stop many times but drove to reach Dirang. We spotted white prayer flags as tall as 10 feet on the way up to Dirang.

You can also halt at Bomdila which is a small town surrounded by the Eastern Himalayas. It has many places to stay and is a logical day one stop for most travelers. Since we had time, we drove further to Dirang.

Day 2: Dirang to Tawang

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 130 kms
• En route: Senge, Se La Lake, Jaswant Garh War Memorial, Jang Waterfalls
• Total driving time: ~7 hours including many photo breaks
• State : Arunachal Pradesh and further north in the state

Reaching Dirang the previous day was a good decision. We were now closer to Tawang and though the distance was not much, the hilly terrain made the driving slow. Crossing small villages, a forest and military stations we climbed up. The weather was now cold and the surroundings scenic. The mountains felt close and the snow closer. We stopped when we first spotted snow by the road side. It was beautiful. We did not know that the Se La pass would be even more gorgeous. The Se La lake was frozen and it was snowing. At times, there was slush but the driving wasn’t hard. One view was better than the other.

We stopped at Jaswant Garh war memorial and Jang waterfalls before reaching Tawang. We couldn’t visit Nyukmadong war memorial but on the outside it looked majestic. Tawang is a small town and growing tourism has resulted in the main roads being converted into one ways. Watch out if you miss a turn in Tawang.

Day 3: Tawang – Bum La – Tawang 

Some stats:

• Distance covered: 100 kms
• En route: Snow and more snow
• Total driving time: ~7 hours up and down including traffic on snow laden road
• State : Arunachal Pradesh and up until the Indo-China Border

No personal cars are allowed on this route.  Only the army or state approved tourist vehicles can drive up to Bum La. We had to get permits the night before from the DC office to go up the Bum La. Now there was another hiccup and that was snow. If it rains in Tawang, it snows in Bum La. And when it snows, the army takes a call whether to allow vehicles up the pass or not. We had the permit in the morning but we were dependent on rain Gods and then the decision of the army.

The morning brought good news. We woke up to a sunny day and though we were late, we were enroute Bum La on a hired taxi. Vehicles cannot leave for Bum La after 10 am and they should leave Bum La by 5 pm. The weather gets bad and the army enforces these rules to ensure safety of the tourists. Can you imagine we covered 50 kms in close to 4 hours? Vehicles move in a convoy and the road is narrow with snow on both sides.

Bum La is where the line of actual control passes between Indian and Chinese territories. The army folks told us that the border is peaceful and is open for tourists. On the way back, we had plans to go to the Sangestar lake but it started snowing. Our convoy got stuck and there was hardly time to reach Tawang before the sunset. We wrapped our day in Tawang and if we get to go again, I wouldn’t miss the Madhuri lake again. Yes, the lake is popularly known as the Madhuri Lake after actress Madhuri Dixit took a dip in it.

Day 4: Tawang to North Lakhimpur

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  485 kms
• En route: Bomdila, Bhalukpong, Nechi Phu, Biswanath Charali
• Total driving time: ~16 hours including breaks
• States : Arunachal Pradesh and Assam

The plan was not to drive so far away from Arunachal Pradesh. However, road trips are all about decisions on the go. The road was going to be blocked for 4 hours and to maximise time, we tried to push ahead so that we could stay a day ahead on the trip. We did not encounter blocks and the road was good so we were able to reach Assam. It was a long day but saving a day was our achievement.

The region is the last plain of India. With multiple tea estates all around, it was good to be back to plains. We crossed small forest reserves and the region was covered in green.

Day 5: North Lakhimpur to Majuli

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  40 kms to reach the ferry point and then the boat to reach Majuli
• En route: River Brahamaputra 
• Total driving time: ~2 hours 
• States : Assam

Majuli is the world’s biggest river island and reaching there meant crossing a part of the mighty Brahamaputra. We started late, thanks to Zoom car troubles but since the ferry point wasn’t too far, it was manageable. Can you believe that the ferry point wasn’t to be found anywhere on google maps? It was because the level of water changes and hence the boarding point keeps changing. When we tried to locate the ferry point, we realized we were driving where in monsoons, there would be water. We got our car on the boat and set off for Majuli.

Reaching Majuli and driving around the small island was a unique experience. One that will be remembered for its uniqueness. We spent that late afternoon and evening exploring the village.

Day 6: Majuli to Kaziranga

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  100 kms from Nimati ghat to Kaziranga. The rest was time in boat to cross the river from Majuli’s Kamalabari ghat.
• En route: Kamalabari ghat, Nimati Ghat, Jorhat
• Total driving time: ~4 hours 
• States : Assam

We took different routes in and out of Majuli. The Kamalabari ghat ferry point was much organized and run by the Inland Water Transport Department. The tickets could be bought once on the boat. You can bargain but we felt there was no point. We can save a 50 or 100 bucks but for these people, that’s their only source of income.

We reached Kaziranga on  time to grab a few sandwiches and get ready for the afternoon safari. Getting tickets to Kaziranga National Park is not hard. The hotel guys can arrange that and the rates are standard. The safari started at 2:30pm and as expected, we spotted the famous one horned rhino and other wild animals. The big cat continued to elude us but that was okay. The national park in itself was beautiful and green.

Day 7: Kaziranga to Shillong

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~250 kms
• En route: Jorabat, Nagaon, Umiam
• Total driving time: ~6 hours including breaks
• States : Assam and Meghalaya

We started our day at 4 am with the Elephant safari. An experience that we are not proud of.  But we still went ahead with the safari and saw animals up close. After a good breakfast, we started for Shillong. I had never seen 4 lanes on a hilly road and this highway boasted of amazing roads to Shillong.

The Umiam lake enroute was a beautiful stop and the city of Shillong wasn’t a typical hill station. Narrow ascending roads and well-regulated traffic was what I observed at the first go.  Though the traffic also caused delays, it was manned and managed. By the time we reached our guest house, the Sun was on its way down and the sky had turned candy pink.

Day 8: A day in Shillong

Shillong is a beautiful city and offers many spots to visit. We had picked up this day to stay put in Shillong,. We wanted to look around and also get a good break from driving. This was a good decision. The weather and traffic were supportive. We started our day at a relaxed pace and visited Laitlum canyons, Elephant falls and the Shillong peak.

It started raining by the time we reached Shillong peak but in Meghalaya, rains add to the beauty of the region. No wonder it is named the abode of the clouds (Megha – clouds and Alaya – abode).

Day 9: Shillong to Mawlynnong

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~80 kms
• En route: Krang Suri Falls, India-Bangladesh border at Tamabil, Dawki, Living root bridge at Riwai
• Total driving time: ~7 hours including the many places we visited
• States : Meghalaya

The drive wasn’t much but the day was rich with the various places we saw. From falls to the border and from the beautiful Dawki to the living root bridge at Riwai. It was a day that brought us closer to Meghalaya. We got to know in those couple of hours that Meghalaya will continue to be a destination that we would love to visit again.

Mawlynnong is the cleanest village in Asia and true to its name, we were able to see how beautiful the village is. A stay there is recommended to feel what it means when every villager takes part to keep the village clean and green.

Day 10: Mawlynnong to Cherrapunjee

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~90 kms
• Total driving time: ~3 hours including the many places we visited
• States : Meghalaya

The drive was quick but this is where major of our car troubles started. We reached Cherrapunjee at a decent time and were able to explore the Seven Sisters water falls and the Mawsmai caves. It hadn’t rained much by then so the waterfalls were not flowing with full fury. I am sure when the state starts receiving rainfall, these falls look majestic.

Day 11: Cherrapunjee to Shillong

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~60 kms
• Total driving time: ~3 hours 
• States : Meghalaya

We had to get our car towed to Shillong and hence this day did not go as we had planned. However, after initial frustration we decided to brighten up our mood and explored Nohkalikai falls, Lumshynna caves and Dainthlen falls. In hindsight, if not for the car issues we would have missed these beautiful places.

We started for Shillong by evening and spent the next day to get the car fixed. Like you can imagine, a day was lost but we had no other choice.

Day 12: Shillong-Nongriat-Shillong

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~120 kms up and down
• Total driving time: ~6 hours 
• States : Meghalaya

This day was planned for the trek to the double-decker living root bridge of Nongriat village. This was our original plan for a day in Cherrapunjee. The 7000 steps trek to the bridge was by far my most memorable experience of our travel. If only we had the strength to trek further to Rainbow falls, it would have been cherry on the cake. That would have meant more trek and by then, I was out of the game.

We completed what we had thought and drove back to Shillong.

Day 13: Shillong to Guwahati

Some stats:

• Distance covered:  ~100 kms
• Total driving time: ~3 hours
• States : Meghalaya and Assam

Our trip was now towards the close. The drive to Guwahati was good and felt as if back to plains. We decided to compensate the short drive by visiting Kamakhya Devi temple and it was a good decision. An afternoon visit on a weekday is the best time. Trust me, you will save a lot of time.

On our last day in Guwahati, we took a sun set cruise on the Brahamaputra river which was a story-book way to end the end. Not my words. VT’s. The day was cloudy so we did not get to see the Sun going down but the sky was beautiful.

All in all, North East stole our heart. It offered all that one can expect. Snow, mountains, views, falls, trek and time with each other. Even after spending many days in the three states, there is a lot to see and experience. The people are warm and the food delectable. A simple life and natural beauty added to the charm for me. Sometimes I wonder if I can really live in the mountains and then I think it’s the city life that also keeps me running.

Road trips are sure an addiction.

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This post is first of many on our Arunachal, Assam and Meghalaya Road Trip. We are grateful to HVK and the CHD team for their support.